Monday, January 23, 2012

DIY Mineral Make up - Tools and Ingredients

Titanium Dioxide
If your skin is acne prone or sensitive to commercial make up and go "naked" is not your choice, you may want to try making your own Homemade MMU cosmetics. You can decide what ingredients are used and how it’s prepared. You’ll know what’s in your foundation, lipstick, eyeshadow and how your skin will respond to each ingredient. And you don’t have to be a chemist, you can read-up and learn. 
There are so many resources on how to make your own MMU products. The best advice would be to look at the ingredients and read-up about them.
I thought that I might share my notes on some of them.

Mineral Makeup Ingredients
All of the brands reviewed are listed at the end.

Mineral Foundation basically contains two things:

1. Base (fillers):
Titanium Dioxide - 10 to 50% (whitening, adhering, adding a texture, heavy coverage, sunscreen) - mine from CS (in oil soluble form) - now they offer only regular one. Oil soluble TD is multifunctional, you can use it making lip products, as well as powder MMU. GOW, TKB-trading, Makingcosmetics carry both Oil soluble and regular TD.

Zinc Oxide - 5 to 20% (whitening, less opaque than TD, adding a texture, medium coverage, absorbing oils, sunscreen) - mine from GOW (in micronized form). CS, TKB-trading, Makingcosmetics also carry both micronized and regular ZO.

Serecite - 20 to 50% (colorless, increasing translucency, reflecting light, low coverage) commonly used in every recipe - from Sweetscents (in untreated form). CS, TKB-trading, Makingcosmetics carry both untreated Serecite and Magnesium myristate treated form with improved adhesion, silky Dimethicone treated form and water resistant Carnuaba treated sericite .

2. Pigments (the color) and Micas A combination of different iron oxides or/ and synthetic pigments: I use only the Mineral Iron Oxides: Yellow, Red, Blue (Ultramarine), Brown and Black - from Sweetscents and CS. TKB-trading, Makingcosmetics also offer a wide range of pigments and all sorts of Micas.
Ultramarines aren't lip safe!

Everything else is optional:

Additional Adhering components (the binder) - A combination of ingredients like Magnesium Myristate or/ and Magnesium Stearate improving adhesion, helping base and pigments stick to the skin. I've read they can be comedogenic and haven't bought any of these, so I am going to omit this step. You can find them on Sweetscents, CS, TKB-trading.
Products: Mineral Foundation, Mineral Veil, Eyeshadow.

Boron Nitride - 5 to 30% (whitening, adhering, adding a pearly sheen and a dewy glow) - mine from Sweetscents. You can also find it on CS, TKB-trading.
Products: dewy Mineral Foundation, Mineral Veil, Eyeshadow, Lipgloss and Lipstick.

Silk and Pearl Powders - 1 to 5% (translucent) - from Lumiere and China.
Products: Mineral Foundation, Mineral Veil.

Bamboo and Rice Powders - 5 to 10% (translucent, absorbing oils, shortening shelf life) - I've bought a plenty on Sweetscents and GOW.
Products: matte Mineral Foundation, Mineral Veil.

Silica - 1 to 5% (adhering and absorbing oils) - mine from Sweetscents and CS. You can also find it on CS, TKB-trading.
Products: matte Mineral Foundation, Mineral Veil.

Kaolin - 5 to 10% (absorbing oils) - from GOW. You can also find it on CS, TKB-trading, Makingcosmetics.
Products: matte Mineral Foundation, Mineral Veil.

Mica - 0 to 100% (adding shine and shimmer) - from CS, TKB-trading.
Products: Mineral Veil, Eyeshadow, Lipgloss and Lipstick.

Little measuring Scoops or Spoons, Mortar and Pestle or Electric Herbal Grinder (from eBay), Sifter Jar and Color Wheel

Usage rates are "flexible”, you can definitely modify them according to your needs, but please check out the safety of the ingredients in the combination and MSDS of the manufacture.
Loose mineral powder contains no water in it and therefore doesn't require preservatives. If you're going to use starches (Bamboo and Rice Powders) or/and other organics (Silk and Pearl Powders) the shelf life will be at least 6 month to maximum 2 years, otherwise (using only minerals) it will stay with you forever.
Depending on the rates of Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide in it, your Mineral Foundation may also offer sun protection.
If you have sensitive skin, just skip all of those irritating ingredients, choose whatever components you want to make your own blend. So all the choices are definitely yours!
Later I'll post some of my recipes, maybe you'll find them useful.

Brands reviewed:

Garden of wisdom

TKB Trading

Making cosmetics


Coastal Scents


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