Saturday, December 24, 2011

DIY - A little Guide to modify a Mineral Foundation to your needs.

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How to: A little Guide to modify a Mineral Foundation to your needs.
All of the brands reviewed are listed at the end
Hello everyone!
Today I’d like to share with you my experience with “tweaking” Mineral Foundations. I’ve got a lot of Mineral Foundation samples that do not fit me well, some I have to adjust color, others texture.
Modifying Mineral Make up isn't complicated. Actually, you might have already fixed your foundation without realizing it: to make the color darker you’ve mixed your foundation with a darker shade, and the opposite to make the color lighter you have mixed it with a lighter shade, to make it less heavy with a bit of the finishing powder.
So when it comes to play with color or/and texture one of the simplest things to do is mix different types of Mineral Foundation. Today I’d like to share some “tweaking” techniques I find very useful. They are not only helping me to save money, but also to create custom foundation any time I need it.


We need to adjust the foundation shade and texture.
How do we do this and what do we need?
First step: take a look at Mineral Makeup Ingredients
Titanium Dioxide
Mineral Foundation basically contains two things:
1. Base (fillers):
Titanium Dioxide - 10 to 50% (whitening, adhering, adding a texture, heavy coverage, sunscreen) - from Coastal Scents (in oil soluble form),
Zinc Oxide - 5 to 20% (whitening, less opaque than TD, adding a texture, medium coverage, absorbing oils, sunscreen) - from Garden Of Wisdom (in micronized form) ,
Serecite - 20 to 50% (colorless, increasing translucency, reflecting light, low coverage) commonly used in every recipe - from Sweetscents (in untreated form).
2. Pigments (the color) and Micas A combination of different iron oxides or/ and synthetic pigments: I use only the Mineral Iron Oxides: Yellow, Red, Blue (Ultramarine), Brown and Black - from Sweetscents and CS.
Everything else is optional:
Additional Adhering components (the binder) - A combination of ingredients like Magnesium Myristateor/ and Magnesium Stearate improving adhesion, helping base and pigments stick to the skin. I've read they can be comedogenic and haven't bought any of these, so I am going to omit this step.
Boron Nitride - 5 to 30% (whitening, adhering, adding a pearly sheen and a dewy glow) - from Sweetscents,
Silk and Pearl Powders - 1 to 5% (translucent) - from Lumiere and China,
Bamboo and Rice Powders - 5 to 10% (translucent, absorbing oils, shortening shelf life) - from Sweetscents and GOW,
Silica - 1 to 5% (adhering and absorbing oils) - from Sweetscents and CS,
Kaolin - 5 to 10% (absorbing oils) - from GOW,
Mica - 0 to 100% (adding shine and shimmer) - from CS.
Tools: Little measuring Scoops or Spoons, Mortar and Pestle or Electric Grinder (from eBay), Sifter Jar and Color Wheel.


Usage rates are "flexible”, you can definitely modify them according to your needs, but please check out the safety of the ingredients in the combination and MSDS of the manufacture.
Loose mineral powder contains no water in it and therefore doesn't require preservatives. If you're going to use starches (Bamboo and Rice Powders) or/and other organics (Silk and Pearl Powders) the shelf life will be at least 6 month to maximum 2 years, otherwise (using only minerals) it will stay with you forever.
Depending on the rates of Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide in it, your Mineral Foundation may also offer sun protection.
If you have sensitive skin, just skip all of those irritating ingredients, choose whatever components you want to make your own blend. So all the choices are definitely yours!
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Second step: Getting Started
First of all we have to figure out why that specific foundation doesn’t fit: is it the color or the texture or both of them, or maybe it's the coverage or the feel on the skin we don’t like? So we have to give each one a go on its own to see exactly what this whole “Fit Me Problem” really was. After identifying the main problem, we’ll decide which ingredient caused it and how to “tweak” the formulation.
As I said before I have a huge amount of foundation samples that I want to use up and today we will try to improve a few of them. The first one I tried was Shell Beige in Oil Control Formula with Silica from Lucyminerals which proved to be too dark for my skin with the obvious yellow undertone. Usually I am Light Olive in most MMU brands and Shell Beige looks a little too sallow on me, do not know why I've bought it. I like the creamy texture of Lucyminerals Foundations, the coverage is excellent, it completely evens out my skin tone and it is lasting longer than any other one I have tried before. The only downside is the application, you only need a tiny amount of foundation to get a full coverage, but it can be tricky, and you can end up looking blotchy and cakey if you apply too much. I can keep experimenting with different ways to apply it, but usually I do not have time for it.

Shell Beige from Lucyminerals
Therefore here we have three problems: this foundation is too dark for my skin, it's too yellow, and the third one, the foundation is little too heavy for my taste.
Please take a look at the list of Ingredients of Lucyminerals foundation with Silica.
Ingredients: zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, mica, magnesium stearate, silica dioxide, iron oxides, allantoin, Apple Poly® polyphenols, trans-resveratrol, green coffee bean extract,
magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.
So if the foundation is too heavy, we have to find the right filler to "dilute” the foundation with it.


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Third step: What are our options? Please have a look:
Serecite - 20 to 50% (colorless, increasing translucency, reflecting light, lower coverage) – it might be a good choice, nothing contradict to our needs.Boron Nitride - 5 to 30% (whitening, adhering, adding a pearly sheen and a dewy glow) – I am not looking for any sheen or/and glow, but a tiny bit will not bother me.
Silk and Pearl Powders - 1 to 5% (translucent) – I can add these components only up to 5%, so can’t really “dilute” the foundation.
Bamboo and Rice Powders - 5 to 10% (translucent, absorbing oils, shortening shelf life) – I do not need more oil absorbing ingredients, since this foundation in Oil Control Formula with Silica and since my skin in wintertime is more normal than combination.
Silica - 1 to 5% (
adhering, absorbing oils) – The same as Bamboo and Rice Powders.
Kaolin - 5 to 10% (absorbing oils) – The same as Bamboo and Rice Powders.
Mica - 0 to 100% (adding shine and shimmer) – I do not like any shimmer in my foundation.
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Fourth step: Instructions:
*Please sanitize all the tools and equipment before making your foundation.
1. So my choice here was Serecite with a tiny bit of Boron Nitride and Pearl Powder. First we will pre-mix our “diluting blend” with 90% of Serecite, 5% Boron Nitride and 5% of Pearl Powder, all together in the ratio 1:1 with the Shell Beige sample.
Honey Ivory Rose foundation sample from The all Natural Face
Olive Warmest foundation sample from The all Natural Face
2. Then we have to address the first and the second issues: to neutralize the dark sallow shade – here I am going to cheat. Mixing the right shade using iron oxides is little too complicated in this case, so we’ll use other samples.
a. First I’ve mixed 2 scoops of Cool Pinkish-Reddish foundation (Honey Ivory Rose foundation sample from The all Natural Face – dark pink undertone) with the Shell Beige to reduce the yellowness. Stir it up.
b. Afterward I’ve added 2 scoops of the dark Olive foundation sample (Olive Warmest from The all Natural Face) to half of my “diluting blend” and stir it up well.
c. Next we’ll combine all together in the grinder and mix it up about 5 minutes. In case you are using a mortar and pestle, take time to grind it well, smashing it up until it looks homogeneous.
d. If it will come out a little too dark and yet heavy, like in my case, be ready to prepare another half of the “diluting blend” with 2 scoops of the Olive Warmest. Combine all together in the grinder and mix it up about 5 minutes.
3. Transfer to your Sifter Jar, use it and enjoy it:)

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Here is what it was And there you have it, my swatches of The House Blend formula and The original Shell Beige in Oil Control Formula with Silica from Lucyminerals..

Shell Beige from Lucyminerals
Swatches

Everyone, who are testing Mineral Foundations and trying to find “the perfect match”, already owns a lot of samples. Well, obviously it makes it a lot harder to try to match the right shade from the online store. However, you don’t have to waste these samples, if you can simply modify them to your needs. It’s really easy to combine fillers, other samples and pigments. 
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To make your foundation give more coverage, you can use the same technique, just different fillers: a combination of the dark Foundation in your shade and Titanium Dioxide.
To adjust it to oily skin - add a combination of the dark Foundation in your shade and Zinc Oxide or/and Bamboo, Rice Powders, Silica, Kaolin.
To give it a dewy glow you’ll need a bit of Boron Nitride and maybe Mica.


Start experimenting with your minerals, have fun and enjoy!


Brands reviewed:
Sweetscents


The All Natural Face


Coastal Scents





Lucyminerals


Lumiere



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